The Buddy Device

I spoke to Mr. Thrapp this morning for some 45 minutes and again he confirmed his story about what David had told him to get the drum and the hfs started. He spun the top cone in the drum by hand and IMEDIATELY put the lid back on while the cone was spinning. Mr. Thrapp explained that this allows the field to build because it is enclosed in the metal container. As for the hfs, he assumed David did the same with the floating magnet and screwed down the screw down magnet right afterwards again creating a build up in the field. From what he has seen from other experiments dealing with this same field, it is imperative that the field be contained and the cones such as that in the drum device be free to turn or oscillate. The ocillation need only be minute. He also said it makes no difference as to which direction the cones might turn although it may work faster if they are turning in opposite directions. However, they will do whatever it is necessary by themselves at the time. The main thing is that the magnets be in repulsion and they are contained. He says the cones will automatically speed up and at the same time creating that humming sound everyone has experienced so far. As for my Tracy’s wheels, he said I was on the right track and to continue with what I have done so far including the current changes. He also said it makes no difference as to using a motor or getting it to turn by hand so long as the motor is isolated enough to not interfere with the field being created. The wheels, cones, plates, etc. will automatically increase in speed if everything is free to move.

He has a friend who has had success with something similar to the drum device. I will try to describe this in detail. His friend is a machinist with his own machine shop and had a vision, urge, or whatever, the same as what I had most recently. He never heard of David Hamel nor anyone else doing anything in this field. He began experimenting with magnetic bearing arrangements. He took two 6" disc magnets and place one on the bottom of a stack I will describe. Using a bushing (and later ball bearings in another experiment) to hold two plates together in the form of a cross, he glued a 1" by ¼" disc magnet at the end of each leg. The top cross separated by a spacer on the bushing was again the same arrangement being within one inch of the bottom cross with it being the same size. Soft iron was used for material to make the crosses. On top of the second cross was another 6" magnet with the same spacing. All magnets were in rejection to each other as you ascended with each step. The plates or crosses were floating within the arrangement on the center bushing, the bushing keeping them centered and in place. The housing consisted of four wooden posts to hold the 6" magnets in place.

Now the important part. He took some of the magnetic stripping you find in the front door of a refrigerature and wrapped this around the outside of the wooden frame leaving a gap between each turn just wide enough to enable him to put his finger through the opening and spin one of the crosses. The crosses begin to immediately increase speed and make a humming sound as they spun. It then blew up just after it began to wobble out of control on him in less than a second after it had reached what he considered maximum speed. Mr. Thrapp concludes that the field generated by the spinning of the crosses with its four magnets in repulsion and kept in containment with the attached stripping is basically what David did with his drum device, the hfs, and what we are trying to duplicate. I’ve made a rough sketch of this arrangement. Enjoy.

Tracy.

I will receive none from Mr. Thrapp because he has none nor is he on the internet. However, I will be presenting pics soon as I put one together to use in my Tracy's wheels, probably Friday if I can get all the materials together. I have the magnets, but not the bearings, flat bar, and magnetic strip that I trust I can find the strip at a used appliance shop. The rest will be a piece of cake. I was also informed one can use a motor if shielded and this will control the speed if caught in time by reducing the speed of the motor assuming it will go fast enough to obtain the effect. I intend to use my 7,000 rpm dc motor and see what happens. I am now asking Aldo in this sentence to draw a diagram as to what I've described and then if it is okay, I will pass it on to everyone. Aldo, will you please do this for me and if you need any more info, let me know.

Tracy.

While living in Alaska we had some very large windows overlooking Cook Inlet. During th4e winter months we would place "warm blankets" on the windows. They are held in place by long stretches of magnetic tape. Now for the good news: After finding a used appliance shop open today, the fellow wanted 10 bucks for the door strip. He showed me what was inside the rubber insulation. I immediately recognized it as the same tape we used in Alaska on the windows. I thank him and proceeded to my favorite sewing and cloth store and purchased the same tape, but much longer than what he had to offer for 3 bucks. All 120" of it. I noticed that the company making this tape is the same one that I purchased my "rejects" 8 1/4" magnets for 25 bucks. It is Magnet Sales and Mfg. Co. in Culver City,Ca. 1-800-421-6692.

Tracy.

Some of you may have already figured this out, but for those who haven't, here it is. While discussing David's drum device, Mr. Thrapp said, as he sees it, you can use any combination of cones, but at least two with the magnets in rejection and magnets at the bottom and top of the device. He also mentioned the cones can be such as the large base, half again in the middle and half again on top; The hamel generator. The main thing is that the cones be able to move easily and the field around them be such that it retains the energy build up when the magnets begin to move against one another. This he believes can be done in the drum, the hfs, the same as it was done with the buddy device; a magnetic barrier around the parts that move. He suggested I put multiple strips on the inside of the skin that encircles my device. This will be part of plan C if all else fails.

The containment wall may be in the form of the steel barrel and I believe it has to have the magnets attached to the barrel so it becomes magnetized. This is one thing David has said not to do because he felt it was full of high voltage. This goes back to him seeing the drum come apart in his garage. I still believe he assumes this to be electricity when in fact it is photon energy being exhibited. I believe that because of this, no one has been able to get the drum device to work except for the claim made by Steve. I leave it to you who are experimenting with the drum to find out. As for me, I'm in the process of incorporating the buddy device in my Tracy's wheels device.

Tracy.

Check this out.....glue is now drying.

Tracy.

I just finished talking with Mr. Thrapp concerning the Buddy device and my failure to get it to work, as it should. It appears we have a communication gap in both of us assuming the other was talking about the same thing. First, I question his friend’s integrity as to this device actually working without Mr. Thrapp seeing it in operation. He assured me his friend is telling him the truth more so now than before because he has decided not to make any money from the device, but "to get it out there," as he put it so everyone could make use of it. He also informed me that his friend has gotten three of these to work and every time he makes modifications to it, it does not work.

Now for some changes that he suggested I make. The open area of the 6" disk magnet has to be covered with the magnets on the cross as the cross spins on top of the disc magnet. Therefore he assumed I knew this and should be using rectangle magnets or larger disc magnets instead of the small disc magnets. To use disc magnets on the crosses, they must be large enough to cover the open face of the 6" magnets (the wide part from open center inside edge to outside edge). This would in effect correlate with Tony’s use of his 7" magnets if he were to use magnets in size that covers the face of the 7" magnet. He also said that the crosses have to float not only on top of the 6" magnet, but also the top cross on top of the bottom cross. This correlates with the hfs wings having to float and the drum cones having to be free standing. Using a bushing with a rod to hold the crosses in place and allowing them to spin freely will eliminate any ball or spacers used to keep the crosses apart so long as they are in rejection to each other and are floating. The top 6" magnet is placed so that the space between the crosses is compressed to ½ their original floating distance when the top 6" magnet is placed in position. The outside magnetic tape must be within 1 inch of the ends of the crosses. He was unsure of the polarity of the tape so if it doesn’t work, to reverse the facing of the tape, but he felt it too should be in rejection to the cross magnets. As for using aluminum or stainless steel for the crosses or in the shape of a disc with more magnets to achieve the floating required, he feels this is possible and will make the operation easier. He also says that one cross should spin in the opposite direction when it is initially started, but not sure this is required to get it to work. I found this most difficult to do when I tried it. He also says his buddy lives near Georgia and is trying to use this device as an OU device, but with no luck because of the ones he has gotten to work, they blow up by spinning too fast and come apart. In other words he hasn’t figured out how to control the spinning to make use of the field generated. To make this clearer, he is going to fax me a diagram this evening of which I will forward to you guys on the list. I will also have Aldo place it on the URL that now includes a section for the buddy device along with a copy of this message.

Tracy.

Curiosity got the best of me. I took a 1/16" x 5 1/2" aluminum circular plate and attached 4 AZ bar magnets on one side and 4 on the other side in attraction letting them overlap the plate 1/4". By having them north to north between the two plates requires that they be south to south against the 6" disc magnet. However, it sure do float real nice with lots of room above the 6" disc magnet and it's much easier to balance. If this doesn't work, then I will go for the extra 8 magnets placed along side the ones already there. I have just enough room to do so. The bar magnets cover the disc magnet very nicely with the bar magnets lying end to end towards the center of the disc.

Tracy.

Diagram of the Buddy device provided by Mr. Thrapp via fax.

This is what I ended up with except I used a 1/16" x 5 1/2" aluminum plate with 4 magnets on each side of the plate with those on opposite side of the plates in attraction to each other. Very nice lift and easy to balance. The arms he shows here are the magnets themselves. He also mentioned that stainless steel plate instead of aluminum if used would be better.

Tracy.

I've been messing around with the buddy device all day and have come to the conclusion that whatever this guy did to get this thing to spin in opposite directions at the same time is beyond me. However, I've come up with a possible solution to the problem. With a motor, preferable one that has speed control, fix two small pulleys to an extended shaft and then on the bushing that holds the plates in place, fix another set of pulleys there. With a rubber or some material like that used in carpet cleaners, put these on the pulleys, but twist one of the rubbers so that one of the plates is spinning in the opposite direction at the same speed. Soon as I get my material together to do this, I will try it out. Good luck to you if you wish to try this and I trust I will hear from you with your results.

Tracy.

Just waiting for the epoxy to dry to try and spin them suckers in the opposite direction at the same time. The drill motor will turn the both bushings with the arms attached to each at a very slow speed and definitely at 600 or better.

Tracy.

After two days of very cold weather, lots of snow, and my guides just now coming off holiday, I was able to get some more done on the buddy device. Baldy on my health group brought me a belt and another pulley that I need to drive the arms within the device. So, maybe by tomorrow I will be able to make a test run on it provided my glue holds everything together. The attachment was the current state of construction just before I received my belts. I'm using double magnets with one arm bare facing the inner magnets in rejection. Both arms are designed to move in opposite direction of one another driven by the drill motor. If I can get the arms to spin and the device to levitate or take off in a wild uncontrollable spin while using the drill motor, then I will play around with it some more to see if I can control the speed and incorporate it in my Tracy's wheels. If not, scrape one device unless you guys see something that I might be able to change to make it work.

Tracy.

I found two more 1 1/2" pulleys in town today and was finally able to get the device assembled. The two belts are taken from a serpentine belt by cutting down the center of the belt. Placing them on the four pulleys requires that one be twisted. Both pulleys are mounted on a half inch aluminum bushing separated by a 3/8" nut on the 3/8" all thread which allows the arms to spin without drag. This allows the two pulleys on the device to spin in opposite directions at the same speed. After some time in assembling my makeshift cage, I managed to get it together for a test. Upon spinning the two arms, everything was working okay until I revved the drill motor up. Two sets of my glued on magnets came flying off and knocked my corner post off. I then repositioned the post, made a top for the top magnet to sit on, and then took a pic before it came apart again. With only two sets of magnets in place on the top arm, I spun the arms once again with the drill motor. The device began to vibrate a little too much and I figured the vibration would tear my device apart again so I turn it off and decided to replace the missing magnets tomorrow, not with glue but brass machine screws and nuts. I will put these screws and nuts in all the magnets rather than rely on the glue to hold the magnets on the arms. I will then reassemble it and run another test.

Tracy.

Today's test results were anything but encouraging. I began the test at a slow speed using the drill motor and after 3 minutes with nada, I then increased the speed to about half maximum. The only thing this did was to have one of my stacked magnets on the bottom arm break into two pieces with the top magnet. Refer to photo 6. How this happened I have no idea because it didn't hit anything as it was spinning. The piece just came flying off. I stopped the test, replaced the two magnets, and continued. I ran it again at slow speed for 5 minutes, then increased the speed slowly to maximum. This rate was kept for 15 minutes with more nada. I then stopped the spinning and reversed the spin using the same procedure as before. Nada. There was a lot of static on the radio at 1600AM, but most of this was caused by the drill motor. There was no interference on the TV. It is highly possible that I don't have the two arms close enough together because of the pulleys requiring the space they do, and to get an increase in magnet strength, I must find some longer screws to add another set of magnets to one of the arms. I will leave it as is until I do and return to my Tracy's wheels and install the two plates that Dave drew up for me with the off setting magnet arrangement. Tests will begin again on both when I've made all the necessary changes to do so.

By the way, are you guys doing anything or just watching? If you are experimenting with the devices or others, it would be nice to have you share your experiences with the rest. It appears that Justin, Jean-Louis, and myself are the only ones reporting on anything lately. I know Aldo is waiting on parts, but how about the rest of you. There are over 40 people on this list as of now.

Tracy.

Well I can't say my buddy's device is performing as well as Doug's motor is, but the test was made. I replaced the #6 x 1" brass screws with #6 stainless steel x 1 1/2" screws and had to cut 1/4" off the ends so the screws wouldn't catch on the belts. I added one magnet to each set on the top arm making it a total of three per set. I then made the same test I made yesterday and nada. However, it is pretty to watch the arms go around full speed because they look exactly like fan blades turning. I also wrapped the magnetic sign material around the device leaving one side open where the belts come through and again nada. I'll put this to the side for now and concentrate on my Tracy's wheels and see if I can get it to vibrate correctly. From our anonymous friend on the list, he suggested I call Marvac in Sacramento and order a dc rheostat to slow the motor down without using a step rheostat. I had tried the coat hanger version and it was not successful enough to make it work. When I called Marvac, the fellow who answered, said he was assembling such a device that is much smaller than the bigger ones because of some toy on the market that requires such and there was nothing on the market that served this purpose. I purchased one of his for 20 bucks and he said he could get it out by Monday. This will allow me to operate the dc motor I have at what I anticipate to be the correct speed to get the wheels to oscillate. If any of you have any ideas you wish me to try with the current setup on the buddy device, speak up and I will try it.

Tracy.